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Sunday, January 6, 2013

ශ්‍රී ලංකාව ලස්‌සනයි... ඒත් වැඩ නම් අවලස්‌සනයි!

වසර විසිපහකට වැඩි කාලයක්‌ තිස්‌සේ ස්‌වීඩනයේ පදිංචිව සිටින මා පසුගිය නොවැ. 6 දා සංචාරයක්‌ සඳහා ලංකාවට පැමිණියේ එරට ගැමි නැටුම් කණ්‌ඩායම් කිහිපයක සාමාජිකයන් 39 දෙනකුද කැටිවය. වසරක්‌ තිස්‌සේ අප මේ සඳහා සූදානම් වූ අතර අපේ ගමනේ අරමුණ වූයේ ලංකාවේ වැඩිහිටි පරම්පරාවට කිසියම් පණිවිඩයක්‌ ගෙන ඒමත්, නැටුම් සංදර්ශන පවත්වා පාසල්වලට ආධාර එකතු කොට දීමත්, රටේ සංස්‌කෘතික වටිනාකමකින් යුතු දේ දැක ගැනීමත්, ස්‌වීඩන් ජන නැටුම් ක්‍රම හඳුන්වා දීමත්ය.

ඒ අරමුණ සියල්ල සම්පූර්ණ කර ගනිමින් පුරා සති දෙකක සංචාරයෙන් පසු ආපසු යාමට සූදානම් වූ සමහරු තමන් ලැබූ අත්දැකීම් තුළින් රටේ සංචාරක ව්‍යාපාරය නැංවීමට දායකත්වය දෙමින් කරුණු ඉදිරිපත් කළහ. එකිනෙකා ලියා පළකළ එම අදහස්‌ ඔවුන්ගේ වචනයෙන්ම කීම වඩාත් උචිත යයි මට හැඟේ.

අවුරුදු 60-85 අතර වයසේ වූ ඔවුන් කටුනායක ගුවන් තොටුපළින් "හෙයිදොa" කියා නොපෙනී ගියේ එම දීර්ඝ ගමනින් ලැබූ සතුටින් හදවත් පුරවාගෙනය. ජීවිතයට තවත් අත්දැකීම් රාශියක්‌ එකතු කොට ගෙනය. මේ ස්‌විඩන් සංචාරකයන් ශ්‍රී ලංකාව ගැන දැක්‌වූ අදහස්‌ කිහිපයකි.

මෝඩ් නෝර්බෙරි - කණ්‌ඩායමේ නැටුම් ගුරුවරියකි. වයස අවුරුදු 68 යි. මෙම සංස්‌කෘතික චාරිකාවේ සහාය නායිකාව ලෙසින් මෙහෙයවූවාය.

"මීට වසර දහ නවයකට පෙර මම ලංකාවට පැමිණියා. ඒ සංචාරයේදී ලැබුණු තොරතුරු මම දිනපොතක සටහන් කළා. ඒ තොරතුරු සමහරක්‌ අදටත් ගැලපෙනවා. ඒත් රටේ බොහෝ වෙනස්‌කම් සිදුවෙලා. විශාල ගෙවල් දොරවල්, ගොඩනැගිලි මංමාවත් ඉදිවෙලා. පැල්පත් පෙනෙන්නට නැහැ. එකල දුටු තරම් යාචකයන්, අංග විකලවූන් පාරවල් අද්දර හිඟාකනවා දැක්‌කේ නැහැ.

මිනිසුන්ගේ අව්‍යාජ, නිරහංකාර සිනාවන් හා ආචාරශීලි බව එදා වගේමයි. එකල තරම් අතිශය දුප්පත් බවක්‌ පෙනෙන්නට නැහැ. ඒ කියන්නේ රට දියුණුවෙලා කියන එක. එහෙත් සෑම තැනම ගොඩනැගිලි ඉදිවීම රටේ පරිසරයට හානියක්‌. අලංකාරත්වයට හානියක්‌. නිවාස ප්‍රශ්නය උග්‍ර බව ඇත්ත. එහෙත් ගසක්‌ කපන විට තවත් පැළ කිහිපයක්‌ ඉන්දනවා නම් හොඳයි. අද දවස ගැන, රටේ ඉදිරි පරම්පරාව ගැනයි සිතිය යුත්තේ. දැඩි අව් රශ්මිය ඇති විට ගස්‌වැල්වලින් හමා එන සුළඟින් ගතට සිතට අමුතුම සුවයක්‌ සැනසිල්ලක්‌ ලැබෙනවා. බොහෝ විට අප ගස්‌ යට වාඩිවී ගිමන් හැරීමට ආශා කරනවා.

විෂකුරු සර්පයන් නිසා වසරකට 5000 කට අධික පිරිසක්‌ මිය යන බව එදා අප සමග ගිය 'ගයිඩ්' විස්‌තර කළා. තේ දලු නෙළන කාන්තාවන් කෝටුවක්‌ අතින් ගෙන යන්නේ හදිසියේ තේ ගස්‌ යටින් මතුවන සර්පයන් මැරීමට බවත් ඔහු කීවා. එම විස්‌තර මා අපේ කණ්‌ඩායම ඉදිරියේ තැබුවේ අප මේ සංචාරය සඳහා සූදානම් වෙද්දී. බොහෝ දෙනෙක්‌ බිය වූවා.

'ගයිඩ්'ගේ මෙම තොරතුරුවල සත්‍යතාවයක්‌ නොමැති බව අපට දැන ගන්නට ලැබුණා. අඩු වශයෙන් යාල වනාන්තරයේදී හෝ සර්පයෙකු නොදුටු විට ඒ බව තවත් තහවුරු වූවා. 'ගයිඩ්ස්‌ලා' අතිශයෝක්‌තියෙන් කරන විස්‌තර තවත් සත්‍ය තොරතුරු සංචාරකයනට ලබා දෙන්නේ නම් හොඳයි.

රොල්ෆ් ජොහන්යොන් - වයස අවුරුදු 70 කි. ඔහු තවමත් මුද්‍රණාලයක සේවය කරයි.

ගයිඩ්ස්‌ලා අප රැගෙන යන්නේ සංචාරකයන් සඳහා විශේෂයෙන් වෙන්වුණු වෙළෙඳ සැල්, සම්භාහන මධ්‍යස්‌ථානවලට. අලෙවි භාණ්‌ඩ ඉතා වැඩි මිලට සංචාරකයනට විකිණීමේදී ඔවුනට ලොකු මුදලක්‌ ලැබෙනවා. ඒ අනුව ගයිඩ්ස්‌ලා දෙපැත්තෙන්ම ලොකු මුදලක්‌ කොටා ගන්නවා. රුපියල් හාර දහසක්‌ වූ සම්භාහනය ඊටත් වඩා හොඳ තත්ත්වයකින් රුපියල් එක්‌දහස්‌ පන්සියයකට කර ගැනීමට පසුව අපට හැකි වූවා. රුපියල් අට දහසක්‌ වූ බතික්‌ කමිසය සාමාන්‍ය වෙළෙඳ පළකින් රු. 2500 කට මිලට ගැනීමට අපට හැකි වූවා. මෙවන් වංචා ගසාකෑම් කටින් කට පැතිර ගිය විට සංචාරකයන්ගේ පැමිණීම අඩුවෙන බව ඔවුන් හිතන් නෑ. කෙනකු රැවටිය හැක්‌කේ වරක්‌ හෝ දෙවරකි.

සංචාරකයන් වැඩි වශයෙන් ගෙන්වා ගැනීමට නම් මෙවන් රැවටිලි, ගසාකෑම් නැවැත්විය යුතුයි. ඔයෑහ ඤපැ aබා ටද යයි නොසිතා උeකජදපැ ඉaජන යන්න ලොකු අකුරින් ලියා ගුවන් තොටුපළේ ඉදිරිපස ප්‍රදර්ශනය කළ යුතුය.

බෘපෙත් මෙලන්ඩර් - වයස අවු. 71. වෘත්තියෙන් ඔහු මහා මාර්ග හා ගොඩනැගිලි ඉදිකිරීම් අංශයේ ඉංජිනේරුවරයෙක්‌. කිහිප වරක්‌ ලංකාවට පැමිණි අයෙක්‌.

මංමාවත්වල තදබදය තරමක්‌ දුරට අඩුවෙලා. සමහර ස්‌ථානවල නව මාවත් ඉදිවෙලා. ඒත් බොහෝ තැන්වල පදික වේදිකාවල ලොකු වළවල් හැදිලා. බෝක්‌කුවල ලොකු හිඩැස්‌. අඳුරේ යන මිනිසුන්ට අනතුරු කැඳවනවා. ලයිට්‌ කණු තිබුණත් අඳුරේ. මාවතක්‌ කැඩී ඇති අන්දම ගැන මා කෙනකු සමග කතා කළ විට ඔහු කීවේ එම මාවත පසුගිය වසරේ ඉතා හොඳින් සැදූ බවයි. බාල වර්ගයේ ද්‍රව්‍ය යොදා ගනිමින් පාරවල් සැදූ විට ඒවා කල් පවතින්නේ නෑ. පාරවල් ඉතා ඉක්‌මනින් අබලන් වන්නේ වාහන වැඩිකම නිසා නොව ඒවා හරියාකාරව, නිසි අන්දමින් ප්‍රතිසංස්‌කරණය කර නොමැති නිසයි.

ස්‌වීඩනයේ මෙන් වාහන බද්දක්‌ අයකර එම මුදල්වලින් පාරවල් දියුණු කළ හැකියි. තාවකාලික පිරියම් සුදුසු නෑ. වාහන වැඩියි. තදබදය වැඩියි. ජනතාවගේ කාලයෙන් වැඩි කොටස ගෙවෙන්නේ මහ මගට. තරග වදින බසයක තෙරපී රැකියාවට යන මිනිසාට සිය රාජකාරිය නිසි පරිදි ඉටු කිරීමට ආශාවක්‌, ශක්‌තියක්‌ ඇති දැයි මට සැකයි.

බස්‌ රථයක නැගී සාමාන්‍ය මිනිසුන් හා එක්‌ව ගමන් කිරීමේ ආශාවක්‌ අපට ඇති වූවා. එහෙත් ඒ තදබදය දෙස බැලූ අපට හැඟී ගියේ එම බස්‌ රථයක ගමන් කිරීමට නම් ජීවිතය පිළිබඳ ආශාව අත්හල යුතු බවයි. ලංකාවේ තරම් දක්‌ෂ රියදුරන් ලෝකයේ කොහේවත් නෑ. එහෙත් ඔවුන් තුළ මහල්ලන් හා කුඩා දරුවන් පිළිබඳ අනුකම්පාවක්‌ නැහැ. වෙනත් කෙනකු උදව්වට නැති නම් අප රටේ රියදුරන් බසයෙන් බැස මහලු මගියාට බසයට නැගීමට උදව් කරනවා. එවන් තත්ත්වයක්‌ මෙහිත් දකින්නට අපි කැමතියි.

හිල්ස්‌ ගුන්නාර් - වයස අවුරුදු 75 යි. කණ්‌ඩායමේ නැටුම් උපදේශකයෙක්‌. රාජ්‍ය සේවයෙන් විශ්‍රාම ලැබුවෙක්‌.

යුද්ධය අවසානයි කියා මා අසා තිබුණා. ඒත් ඒ ගැන මට පැහැදිලි අවබෝධයක්‌ ඇති වුණේ මෙහි පැමිණි පසුවයි. අප කොතනකවත් මුරකාවල් හෝ සෝදිසි කිරීම්වලට ලක්‌වූයේ නැහැ. මහනුවර සිට ත්‍රිකුණාමලයටත් එතැන් සිට නුවරඑළිය හරහා ගාල්ලටත් කිසිදු අවහිරයක්‌ නැතිව අපට යන්නට ලැබුණ එක ලොකු සතුටක්‌.

යුද්ධය අවසන් බවට පැතිරුණු ආරංචි ප්‍රමාණවත් නෑ. බොහෝ රටවල මිනිසුන් සිතා සිටින්නේ ලංකාවේ තවමත් යුද්ධය පවතිනවා කියලා. යුද්ධය පැවති සමයේ ලංකාව ගැන නොයෙකුත් බිහිසුණු ආරංචි අපට අසන්නට, කියවන්නට ලැබුණා. ඒවා මිනිසුන්ගේ සිත්වලින් අමතක වෙලා නෑ. ඒ වාගේම ලංකාව සුනාමියට ගොදුරු වූ රටක්‌. බොහෝ සංචාරකයන් ඊට මෙහිදී බිලිවූවා. යුරෝපීයන් වැඩි දෙනෙක්‌ මෙහි එන්නේ අව්ව තැපීමටත් මුහුදේ නෑමටත්ය. දැඩි රළ පහර නැති මුහුදේ නෑමට සුදුසු ස්‌ථාන ගැන තොරතුරු සපයනවා නම් වඩා හොඳයි.

කැට්‌ සන්ඩ්බැක්‌ - අවුරුදු 68 යි. විශ්‍රාම ලත් ගුරුවරයෙක්‌.

ලංකාවේ රුපියල් ශත භාවිතා වුවත් විදේශිකයන්ගෙන් මුදල් අය කරන්නේ ඩොලර්වලින්. ඒක වැරදියි. එකම මුදල් ක්‍රමය භාවිතා කිරීම වඩාත් සුදුසුයි. ඒ වාගේම බොහෝ බෞද්ධ සිද්ධස්‌ථාන, පැරණි නටබුන් බලන්නට යාමේදී දේශීයයනට ඉතා අඩු මුදලක්‌ නැතිනම් නොමිලයේම ඇතුළු විය හැකි මුත් විදේශිකයන්ගෙන් විශාල මුදලක්‌ ඒ සඳහා අය කෙරේ. ඒ සම්පූර්ණයෙන්ම අප හෙළා දකිනවා. අපේ රටට පැමිණෙන විදේශිකයන්ගෙන් එවන් වෙනස්‌ ගාස්‌තු අය කළහොත් ඔවුන්ගේ සිත්වලට මොන තරම් පීඩාවක්‌ ගෙන දේද?

ආසියාතික රටවල් කිහිපයක එවන් දෙවිදියක සැලකුම් දක්‌නට ලැබෙනවා. එය රටේ සංචාරක ව්‍යාපාරයට ලොකු පහරක්‌.

උදාහරණයක්‌ වශයෙන් බෞද්ධ සිද්ධස්‌ථානයක්‌ වන දළදා මාළිගාවට ඇතුළු වීමට අපෙන් රු. 2000 ක්‌ අය කළා. එහෙත් ඇතුළු වූ පසු පෝලිමට එක්‌වූ අපට විනාඩි දහයකින්, පහළොවකින් ලොකු වෙහෙසක්‌ දැනුණා. ඇරත් පෝලිම් ක්‍රමය අපට නුහුරුයි. අප දුටුවේ මාළිගාවේ බිත්තිත්, මල් ආසනයකුත් පමණයි. රුපියල් 2000 ක්‌ ගෙවා බිත්ති පමණක්‌ බලා අප එතැනින් පිටවූවා. විශාල මුදලක්‌ අය කරන්නේ නම් ඒ සඳහා වෙනත් පහසුකම් සැලසිය යුතුයි. ඇරත් බුදු දහමේ සංකේතයක්‌ පිළිබිඹු කරන ස්‌ථානයක දෙවිදියක සැලසුම් කෙසේවත් සුදුසු නෑ. එය අප හදාරා ඇති බුදු දහමේ මූල ධර්මවලට පටහැනියි.

යාල අභය භූමියට ඇතුළු වූ අපට දක්‌නට ලැබණේ අලි දෙන්නෙක්‌ කටුස්‌සෙක්‌, කබරයෙක්‌, මීහරක්‌ රංචුවක්‌ හා කුරුල්ලන් පමණි. ඒ සඳහා අයකරන මුදලත් අසාධාරණයි. ඇතුල් වීමේ ගාස්‌තුවට අමතරව වාහනයක්‌ සඳහාත්, ගයිඩ්ලා සඳහාත් ලොකු මුදලක්‌ ගෙවන්න සිදු වෙනවා. මෙවන් දේ සංචාරකයන් අඩු වීමට එක්‌ හේතුවක්‌.

සීගිරිය නැගීමට අපට කිසි අපහසුවක්‌ දැනුණේ නෑ. එහෙත් අප පසු පසින් ඇදුන 'ආධාරකරුවන්' අපේ අත්වලින් අල්ලමින් නොයෙකුත් දේ කියන්නට පටන් ගත්තා. ටික දුරක්‌ ගොස්‌ ලොකු මුදලක්‌ ඉල්ලුවා. යම්තම් රුපියල් 4000 ක්‌ දී බේරෙන්න හැකි වූයේ වෙනත් දේශීයයකුගේ උදව් ඇතිව, ඔවුන්ගේ දුප්පත්කම ගැන අප අනුකම්පා කරනවා. ඒත් ඔවුන් නොදන්නා දෙයක්‌ අපි කිව යුතුයි.

සුදු හම තිබුණත් අප විශාල ධනවතුන් නොවෙයි. මෙම සංචාරයට අප සූදානම් වූයේ පසුගිය වසරේ සිට. වෙනත් බොහෝ රටවලට වඩා අඩු මුදලකින් සංචාරය කළ හැකි බව සිතුණේ රුපියලේ අගය අඩු නිසා. එහෙත් මෙහි පැමිණි පසු තත්ත්වය වෙනස්‌ බව වැටහුණා. හෝටල් කාමරවල මිල අධිකයි. ඩොලර් භාවිතා වන රටවලත් මීට වඩා හොඳ කාමර අඩු මුදලකට ගන්නට හැකියි. කෑමත් මිල වැඩියි. අප ශරීර සෞඛ්‍යය ගැන හිතන අය. අප කෑම ගන්නේ ඉතා අඩුවෙන්. මහා කන්දක්‌ තරම් උස කෑම පිඟානක්‌ අපි බෙදා ගන්නේ නෑ.

කෑම පිසීමේදී දුරු වර්ග මිශ්‍ර කිරීමේදී වඩාත් සැලකිලිමත් විය යුතුයි. අප කටට රසට කෑමට ලැදි මුත් කටට සැරට කන්න කැමති නෑ.

එරික්‌ එරික්‌සොන් - වයස අවු. 75 ව්‍යාපාරිකයෙක්‌. තවමත් සේවයේ නියුතුයි. පොළොන්නරුවේදී මුදල් මාරු කර ගැනීම සඳහා ඔහු අනෙක්‌ අයත් සමග බැංකුවකට ගොඩ වූවා. බැංකු නිලධාරියා ඔහුට මුදල් කොළ මිටියක්‌ ගෙනැවිත් දුන්නා. එතන එක්‌ ලක්‌ෂ තිස්‌ පන් දාහක· මුදල් මිටිය අතට ගත් ඔහු, 'මේක වැරදීමක්‌. මට එන්න ඕනෑ රු. 17000 ක්‌ පමණයි' කියා මුදල් ආපසු දුන්නා. ඔහුගේ අවංකකම වෙනුවෙන් බැංකුවෙන් ඔහුට සුළු ත්‍යාගයක්‌ද ලැබුණා. ඒ ත්‍යාගයත් ඔහු තව කෙනකුට පරිත්‍යාග කළා.

හෝටල්වල මිල අධික වුවත් අපට හොඳ සේවයක්‌ ලැබුණා. ඒ අතර අපගේ ප්‍රථම හා අවසන් ශ්‍රී ලංකා සංචාරය යනුවෙන් සිතන හෝටලුත් තිබුණා. තිස්‌සමහාරාමයේ එක්‌තරා හෝටලයක අප නවාතැන් ගත්තා. ඔවුන් අපෙන් නොවිමසා රාත්‍රි කෑම සඳහා බුෙෆ් සූදානම් කර තිබුණා. අප රාත්‍රියට ගන්නේ සැහැල්ලු ආහාරයක්‌ බවත් එම ආහාර අපට බර වැඩි බවත් කියා සිටියා. රු. 1500 කට මිල කර තිබූ බුෙෆ් කෑම වේලට රු. 950 ක්‌ ගෙවා ගන්නා ලෙස කළමනාකරු අපට කියා සිටියා. ඊට ද අකැමැත්ත පළකළ පසු සුප් බඳුනක්‌ පාන් කෑල්ලක්‌ ගෙන රු. 450 ක්‌ ගෙවන්න යයි ඔහු කීවා. ඊට කෝපි කෝප්පයක්‌ එකතු කළ හොත් රු. 650 ක්‌ වන බව ඔහු පැහැදිලි කළා. කිහිප දෙනෙක්‌ ඒ ගත්තා. සමහරුනට රු. 450 ක්‌ තවත් සමහරුනට රු. 650 යනුවෙන් සුප්වලට අය කොට තිබුණා. ඒ ගැන ප්‍රශ්න කිරීමේදී ඔහු කියා සිටියේ සමහරු පාන් පෙති තුන හතරක්‌ ගත් බවයි· එම හෝටලයේ ඩොලර් 73 බැගින් අපට ලබා දුන් කාමරවලට මුදල් ගෙවීමට යාමේදී 10% එකතු කළා. අයකරන මිල ගණන් ගැන මුලින්ම පැහැදිලි කරනවා නම් වඩා හොඳයි. මෙවන් ගසාකෑම්වලින් සංචාරකයා බලවත් අපහසුතාවයන්ටත් කලකිරීමටත් පත්වෙනවා.

ලංකාව ස්‌වභාව සෞන්දර්යයෙන් පිරි රටක්‌. සුදොa සුදු පාසල් නිල ඇඳුම් ඇඳ උදේ පාසල් යන ළමුන් දෙස අප බලා සිටියේ හරි ආශාවෙන්, මෙම උෂ්ණ රටේ ඒවා පිරිසිදු කිරීම එතරම් පහසු නෑ. ඒ පිරිසිදු සුදු ඇඳුම වගේම පරිසරයත් පිරිසිදුව තබා ගන්නට දරුවන්ට උගන්වන්න ඕනෑ. හිස්‌ වතුර බෝතලය, හිස්‌ යෝගට්‌ කොප්පය පාර අයිනට විසිකරන ළමුන් දුටුවා. කසළ බඳුන් සුදුසු තැන්වල තිබේ නම් එවන් දේ සිදුවන්නේ නෑ. මේ තරම් මදුරුවන් බෝවන්නේ නෑ. අපි මදුරුවන්ගෙන් බොහෝ පීඩා වින්දා. සමහරුන්ගේ සිරුරුවල රතුපාටට ලොකු කැලලි සෑදුණා.

සුළු වෙළෙන්දන්ගෙන් ද බේරීම එතරම් පහසු නෑ. අනවශ්‍ය දේ බලෙන් ඇඟේ ගසා මුදල් ඉල්ලීම අප රුස්‌සන්නේ නෑ. අප පුරුදුව ඇත්තේ සාප්පුවකට ගොස්‌ අපට අවශ්‍ය දේ තෝරාගෙන එහි සටහන්ව ඇති මිල ගෙවා ගැනීම මිස රු. 5000 යි කී දේ රු. 500 ට බැස්‌සවීම නොවෙයි.

ලංකාව කුඩා රටක්‌ වුවත් හැම දේම තියෙන හොඳ රටක්‌. මේ රට ආසියාවේ හොඳම රට බවට හරවන්නට ලෙහෙසියෙන් පුළුවන්. මිනිසුන්ගේ සිනාව සමඟ අවංක භාවය කැටිවෙනවා. නම් එය වඩාත් ලෙහෙසියි.
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chaperdad said...

http://album.turizm.ru/146324/mess_1/ <<<< ගත්තේ මේ එකෙන්/මේක මට එකේදී හම්බ උන රුසියන්කාරයෙක් එව්ව Link එකක්
මෙන්න මේ අර්ටිකල් එකත් සිංහලෙන් දානවනම් හොදයි.(Google Translater එකෙන් ඉංග්‍රීසියට හරවන ලදී)

We went there in August 2012, together with her husband, after the wedding, almost a month. A week later, we were joined by our friends, also newlyweds. Usually, I'm getting ready to travel in advance and thoroughly, but because of wedding preparations is little time to, from time to time read the reviews, was about the route, looked a little Gest ... And friends are ready about the same. As a result of the review, we concluded that the guide we hardly need that the Sri Lankans - friendly people, help, prompt that have to bargain and very cheap to ride on the buses. The more independent travel experience we already have.

Just want to say that the forums a lot of misinformation! I do not know why people write it, but we gave up a lot of time.

The first week spent in Unawatuna. Always write that the summer there - it's not the season. But the weather was good, a week rain fell three times, one - night after long day, once most of the day. The ocean is very warm, azure blue, the waves are small, you can swim, without the waves would be even interesting. Little people, the beach is empty, and therefore prices, as it later turned out to be lower than on the east coast. I do not know what's going on in the season, but in August it was fine.

chaperdad said...

The forums write about Russian gest with owner Natalia and call it Rock House. He is said to be so! Russian gest Rockhouse is located right in front! And we mistakenly settled into it. Then, passing by, heard the Russian language, and realized it was a mistake. But Natalie said she did not want to spoil relations with the neighbors, and we move it did not. By the way, the price it lower than the Rock House, and the conditions better. It was our first guestlist in Sri Lanka, so we did not yet know the whole kitchen, settled there for 4500 rupees (twin room). Unawatuna is expensive for "no season", and even though we had hot water, breakfast, wi-fi and air conditioning. But the Rock House is not located near the ocean (5-7 minutes walk).

Yes, all prices, as described in the forums in 2011, and especially since 2010, is valid! Then the rupiah to the dollar was around 112, and now 133! Therefore, all the prices of those years must be multiplied by 1.5.

In general, in this guestbook we first encounter with cunning Lankans. The owner saw that the people came by taxi, with backpacks, insanely tired (after an overnight flight) and twisted wildly price.

2 days later we moved in a guest Summer Garden on the beach, literally 3 meters from the ocean, the room was cleaner, hot water, wi-fi, though we gave up the air conditioner, and we took control. But we turned it on and so. And all this was worth 2500 rupees, and we first asked how much we want a number? We said 2500. To which we replied, okay) The room was on the 3rd floor, integrated, one door opens to the ocean, the other on the road, sleeping was quite noisy.

Now about the food - dinner in many cafes on the beach: tables are right on the sand, at 2 meters from the ocean, in the evening light the candles and torches, romance ...

In 3 small restaurants in the evenings spread fresh fish, squid, crabs, shrimp, you come to choose, and it is prepared right in front of you. Nowhere else in Sri Lanka we had ever seen.

It is best to cook at the restaurant Lucky Tuna. It is located approximately in the middle of the bay. It was the most delicious shrimp on the island! As soon leave Unawatuna, as we understand it. And then the rest of the time regretted not eating more) huge dish with 2 fish, by 8 large shrimp, 2 squid, lots of potatoes and salad was worth 3000 rupees - double just a huge portion! Serves 2 with shrimp with potatoes and salad, too 3000. French fries they call chips and delicious everywhere.

chaperdad said...

Rice is served huge portions, you can eat together, he is a vegetarian, sometimes with shrimp, fish, chicken, meat. 1 portion is worth 350 and 600 rupees.

Juice is served everywhere in different ways, and all delicious! Costs around 200 rupees. They do it in a blender, just crushing fruit, sometimes (in the worst case) is diluted with water.

Alcohol is sold or in the cafes, or in the local supermarket chain Food City, or in the Wine shop.

In Unawatuna bottle of local beer Lion (not 0.5, and 0.625) in the cafe was worth Rs 250, in the villages, where the "season" - 300-350, and the bottle itself was written 140. In general, they have the price of any product listed on the product itself, and Food City are at this price and sell, and in their small shops, stores can cheat. Food City in many large cities, it is one of Halle, and in Unawatuna were not there. There was only Wine Shop - a small stall with alcohol. It is situated on the road at about the last hotel in the bay of the Matale. Besides beer there are different types of arrack, rum, gin. Good spirits, but in Lanka drink better than in Russia) Arak costs about 900 rupees, 1200 rum, gin 1500.

And then begins tin. On Day 2, we are still inexperienced, drove a tuk-tuk in Halle. It cost 400, it's expensive. On the bus ride together for 30. 10 minutes to go. It looked a fort, it was built Dutch architecture is very different from the Sri Lankan definitely for the better, so it was very pleasant to take a walk!

Then he decided to search the market. Here we attached to the local, said he was the chef at our hotel, well, we believe. In fact, they are so inexperienced lure. We accidentally told him that we were going to the market, which do not cost, it caused us to pursue. We started talking to each other in Russian, as if to get rid of it, or will ask for money. He kind of understood and said, no, I do not need anything. We passed about 200 meters, and then the husband breaks slap. And here is just located next to shoe repair at a small table. Lankiets drags us there. We ask: How much? A: 400. We are trying to bargain, but is a slap in their hands, and it is beginning to mend, so fast! Husband give other spanking and lankiets again trying to lead us to the market. But here we do balked and say, we will wait here until repaired slap. He says, well, then I'm gone. And begins to seem to go away. We say, Come. He comes back and says, give me a beer at 350 rupees (about the price of beer I wrote earlier, right?). We say, we do not have that kind of money, it does not go away, begins to whine and beg, in the end, we give him about 200, no way! Here ends the second repair spanking and tells us: 800! We: as 800? It was a 400! So is this one .. A second was a?! Well, I did it anyway sewed! Overall - kapets full! We are beginning to swear, breaks away without any slap (a sneaking suspicion that the new store are cheaper). As a result, we give another 500 and run away from them, to calm down. Of course, the store was cheaper! I bought for $ 550, and her husband then, when these were broken again, with 340! These are nice people Lankans.

All in all, we stayed in Unawatuna week, then returned to Colombo to meet the guys. And already there have found that in Unawatuna, in the guestbook Summer Garden has been stolen money. A lot of money. More than half of what we took with them at all. Contact we will not have, to sense that. The bus could not do it, because backpacks were always with us. Upset, of course, awful. It was a wild desire to go home, because these ... people did not want to leave a penny. But still remained.

Next we had to plan a cultural program: Peak Adam, Nuwara Eliya, Dambula, Sigiriya, then Trincomalee (read on forums that next wonderful beauty Nilavelli beach and coral island Pidgeon), and finally, Arugam Bay - surfing.

chaperdad said...

In Colombo, the day was rain, there was something cool and sad, especially after the lost money. We have presented how we in the cold and rain at night climb Adam's Peak and decided to not go now, but on the way back. In the meantime, go in the direction of Trincomalee. While solved the problems with the money, wasted time, eventually went to the bus late, at about 2 pm. They arrived at Dambuly in the dark and decided to spend the night there and in the morning to see anything. Got out of the bus, and then we caught a tuk-Tucker. Again we were tired, dark, where to go - is unclear. Well, let's go with it. He brought us to one guestlist. Price - 2000, in this case - no hot water, no Conder or vayf. A vayfay very necessary. Let's move on. Another guestlist for the same price, called Aladdin, only there the old, old Conder. While driving, we saw a very decent large hotel where Tucker We initially did not want to carry. Finally took. There was everything from water to vayf, but all the rooms are occupied. We are rid of Tucker and tasted like yourself. It is useless, in the dark, nothing but these three hotels have found. In the end, decided to go in the second, Aladdin. Wanted to pay immediately, but the owner said tomorrou, tomorrou but problems. Okay. Settled, found Food City, ate, drank beer and cheered like. We decided that tomorrow everything will be really good.

Evicted. Put on a rack 4000 rupees for 2 rooms. Owner with feigned surprise looks at us and says, even 4000! We: like 4000, you said yesterday that 2000! No, I said 4000! But we clearly heard yesterday and showed on his fingers: 2000! Began to curse: the rooms are dirty, old Conder, no hot water, no vayf in Colombo this is number 2000. He says, It is in Colombo, where competition, and I am here alone, I'm a businessman. ....... he is not a businessman. And again we lohanulas. In the end, gave him 7000, said that his God would punish him for lying, and left. And he, when this is turned, the Buddha statue removed from the rack.

But where to go - is unclear. Decided to ask for a great hotel in vayfay sit. It is not believed that there is probably something for free, but we were allowed to enter the lounge on the couch and even brought juice, a compliment from the hotel, unfortunately, I do not remember what it's called. We drank half a cup, and I say, yeah, but now there is a sleeping pill, we all fall asleep, and we were robbed! Hysterically laughed about it, but the juice drank.

Habaranu decided to go to ride on elephants. But the hotel we were told that it is too early, you have to go closer to the dinner. It seems to have decided to go, had to wait up to 12 days, we were told that it is still early. We were presented now ride on elephants, and then again in the dark come to Trincomalee and befall us the same story yesterday. A sleep again Dambule not want all my being! And decided to hammer on the elephants, go on.

chaperdad said...

Take the bus, or rather, barely squeeze with backpacks on the bus to Trincomalee. 2:00 we rode standing, squeezed on all sides Lankans. Then he managed to sit up. But then began repairing the road, and three hours later we were driving at a speed of 20 km, sanding dust, dirt and sand from all sides. Arrived. 17 hours, the sun is setting. Trincomalee - a port city, the beach there, and we need the beach! We go to Nilavelli is 16 km away. Two Tucker agreed to take us there for 1600. But where to go, we again do not know. Say - Bring just to the beach. Hotels must also be the same type of tourist destination, there and look. Yes, no question. Come, and it DOES city beach! There's just a huge pile of local, sell something, something to eat, swim, sit, lie on the sand, scurrying back and forth. We looked at harder than in other places, it is evident that the Europeans are not as frequent guests.

And all around .... The beach is really very long, beautiful, and the sand, and all that. But everything else - a nightmare. Barren patches of land, covered with barbed wire, somewhere sheltered shack from which peep child beggars, piles of garbage, the collapsed buildings, half dead cow, dirt, devastation ...

In one section of the beach - the icon of radiation, barbed wire, and, apparently, some military installations.

In all this horror, we saw three hotels and a café, maybe there is another, but the beach is long, and his whole we do not pass.

To say that we were shocked - it does not say anything. Monstrous lump in my throat, tears in his eyes - here we went 2 days!

Suemsya first found in a hotel - 4000, no hot water, no Conder, beach access directly to all of these people ... vayf in this settlement is not really anywhere! Tucker took us to another hotel. There, in 2000, the same conditions, but dirtier. Beside another, seemingly clean, air-conditioned room 6500, no - 4500. How do these prices? What to do, it's getting dark, we decide to stay in a cheap, said Shahira Hotel. The owner tells us that the light will only come after 18, and it seems that it happens every day ... Okay, inhabit. Muddy course, but basically nothing. Storey hotel, the letter P, but inside something like garden. From the entrance to the room even seen the ocean. In general, you can live, we decide. One can see that the owner is trying to attract tourists as you can, is accounting, all carefully recorded and provides a blueprint copy of the receipt. Even put on his hotel and very agode asked us to write reviews there. Anyone who wants to be alone away from the benefits of civilization - this place is well suited. We saw one such girl - European. Sat all day with headphones in my ears and a book on the veranda, and nothing more is necessary ...

chaperdad said...

We ask in the kitchen and you have a beer? Actually no ... alcohol? No ... Well, at least there's the food? Yes, the food is! Ate, it is tasty, then the sole cafe even found beer. The hotel had a deal on a trip to the island Pidgeon for tomorrow, to snorkeling.

Woke up at 6 am from the intricacies of singing - wailing right outside the window. It seems this is their morning prayer. Of course, what if the work to rebuild their homes, but at least the garbage (distribute by the same) around the house clean up the laziness does not allow, we can only pray to sing ... You look around and are amazed. Well, the tsunami. But it also was 6 years ago! That, during this time you can not move / burn broken palm tree? Okay, the war. But she, too, was over 2 years ago. That can not be removed now and put barbed wire from the same palm decent fence? This is your house, you live here, raise children, and every day you look at it! What do they teach their children, except that the white people have to throw at his feet, look into my eyes and beg? Fu.

So, we went to the island.

6000 trip cost for two, for the money we were given masks and fins, able to take to banks, where he bought a seat ticket, of course, they cost is actually cheaper than we were told, but we're not surprised (on the island check tickets ), able to take to the island and took about 3 hours. During this time we have plenty naplavatsya, burn, watch fish and reef sharks see two meters away from you!

This, of course, not the Red Sea, coral mostly all dead by the tsunami, and the fish is not very much, but we still loved it! It was the first positive impression in the last 3 days! Yes, the island is not sold water, so it should take.

We decided to leave early the next day. And as the bus again, we were not able to overpower, to devote the rest of the day looking for a machine to Arugam Bay. Asked at all hotels, walked around the park, called the taxi driver friend of Colombo and the Russian guide, bargain wherever they could, and, as a result, less than 16,000 per minivan agree. And early in the morning finally pushed off from this black spot.

As for the road - then the laws of physics in Sri Lanka do not work. Like the distance is small, and the road is smooth, and the car was not that I have much, but drat: about km away. 200, we have overcome in 6 hours. Even here we have managed to deceive. Asked whether to pay in dollars? Yes, no question. The driver of the calculator amount in rupees divided on the course, showed us the result we paid. The next day, made on his calculator in your phone reverse operation - was 1,000 more! How? They even phones lie!

chaperdad said...

Arugam - the tourist destination on the east coast, and we passed it, you can tell a whole. The bay is very large, about three times more Unawatuna. Guest and many cafes along the coast and along the road. Lots of shops with souvenirs and clothing. In general - almost civilization.

However, it is worth a little further away from the main road - and the sight of the same horror as in Nilavelli.

It's a pity that there is no Food City, but it is in Pottuvile - is 5 minutes and 200 rupees a tuk-tuk. True, a small shop and no alcohol. But there is a Wine Shop. At the opposite end of Pottuvilya village from the main road to the right is 100 meters. In short, hidden away - whether it is healthy), but there is a good range!

In Arugame we changed 3 hotels. When they began to look for - were shocked by the price - 6000, 8000 crore for the same numbers and worse, as they were in Unawatuna. But, as the quest to find suitable alternatives. First settled on one day, without Conder, internet and hot water in 3000, can not remember the name. But she was right next to the road and we did not like it.

In the following we moved to 2 days: Sams Hut. Pretty cute bungalows, some with veranda under roof. But we did not sit there because it was dirty. House with a tile floor cost 2500, with a concrete floor in 2000, but there was just a bunch of mosquitoes that have bitten a huge cockroach in the trash at night and climbed chipmunk scared half to death! But the guys - the owners are very nice Gest! Their five people, a community live together cook and eat in the evening sitting in the courtyard and smoked marijuana, all or dreadlocks or with wild hairdos (and local is very well, immediately begin to look more nice), very sociable and friendly. We never cheated)

The next place - right on the ocean, too, forgot the name ... It was the perfect place to Arugame. Guestlist is almost at the end of the beach Pottuvilya. Rooms - also bungalow, the cheapest - 2500, but there is a shower / toilet have to walk up the street (every house of your own). Toilet with no roof, and often grows in a shrub or tree! We were surprised at first that, and then liked it! In one of the toilets beautiful bush bloomed pink flowers, was super)))

chaperdad said...

And over his head - the sky! Bungalows were for 3500, there are all in one room. Own houses of rough boards, sometimes with openings Mezhuyev them, and the roof of palm leaves. Between the roof and the wall grid of boards, so that a crow could easily get through (to us tried). And the most expensive houses - 4500, not wood, and without any holes.

And in the middle area of ​​Gest veranda retsepshen, tables, sofas and a huge hammock! Very comfortable, also the internet was! And cook it well.

Of the cons: always turned out the light, but it's all over the village. At 6 am restless local aunt started brooms sweep the sand exactly around the house! What were they swept - is unclear, the difference can not be seen, and ezheutrenne Shirk-Shirk for half an hour just above the ear irritated terrible! I wanted to get up and kill them! Instead, prepare a house to move in early, they were not able to, we waited for about two hours!

Finally take those for which we have come to Arugam - surfing! Have taken on board the road for 800 apiece, and the lessons did not take, even before anywhere and did not study. Decided to first try for yourself. Come on baby-point, and two hours later my husband has to get up on the foam. I got the next day. Right next to the baby and the local swimming Maine Pointe, very afraid to ram one of them surf.

On whiskey-Point went just to see without surfing. It is located in the next village for Pottuvilem, tuk-tuk drive offer for 1200, while we drove ourselves, on a bike.

Tales also took on the road, 1,000 a day - from 9 to 19. We went in the direction of Yala, got only up to the reserve Cumana.

chaperdad said...

Inside we certainly did not let on bikes. Asked the local near the barrier: will we see there elephants? They nodded a little doubtfully and said, if you're lucky, get a jeep with a driver! As we stood and reflected on the subject, we were approached by a European, and said that there are no elephants, we will not see, so we take the jeep did not.

While riding to Cumana and back, saw buffalo, monkeys, peacocks, lots of other birds and twice someone's ass skulking in the bushes, and could not understand whose))) To go by wondering where you want to - there and turned around - Jungle! A most pleasing almost no locals))) tried to find a lake with crocodiles from the stories of a German neighbor (he went with the fat-Tucker), but did not find anything.

Somewhere on the forums subtracted lot enthusiasm about Gest Rupu's. Like there's so delicious prepared as anywhere else. Found this very Rupu's (he right next to a puddle, where there are fishing boats) and decided to go try it. The place itself was not good dirty tables under a roof, stretched mesh. View again on the puddle and the internal road that go-go. Ordered juice - diluted with water, soup from a bag ... I do not like it. Thought, well, okay, it may be something else to try, went a second time. We ordered a fruit salad and pasta, carbonara. Local obviously surprised that they have a menu) So, after all four of the Carbonari suffered from stomach, decided not to experiment!

It is like looking gest Mambos. It is right near the main-point. The atmosphere of relaxation and nice bungalow, however, did not look inside. Tried the pizza there (the cheapest - 1000), not happy.

Gest like Tsunami. He's on a beach somewhere in the middle. But expensive housing - 6500, and we ate there often. Delicious, and the owner is very friendly.

chaperdad said...

The most delicious juices, surprisingly, were the dirtiest eatery on the road.

Though we wince over the sticky tables with flies, but still came, it was too good! Healthy cups, 300 grams exactly, but maybe all 500, thick, with no water and only 180!

Not immediately, but tasted papaya! Awesome stuff! It should be about 100, depending on size. Something between a melon and pumpkin, it is now probably miss most ... Well, more shrimp! Tried dragon eye: something like a kiwi, but the red and sour impression is not made. Wooden apple - rotten filth! Jack-Fruit not understand as it is. The forums also admired his extraordinary taste, and we cut and nothing but guts poluderevyannyh binding was found. Maybe it needs to cook? Or maybe he was immature. Well, bananas and pineapples are delicious and very cheap! Unawatuna beach we tried vparit pineapple for 1200, and in the Food City 120 is worth it.

Early one morning, went to the fish market in Pottuvil and bought shrimp and squid. Some were still alive! Marinate them yourself and night on fire fire! It was amazing to eat!

Well, here it is time to leave. Discussed several times, if we go on the way back to Nuwara Elia and Adam's Peak. Decide to go, do not go .. And something so tired in the end and all of the discussions, and from Sri Lanka especially, and were afraid to get stuck back into history and miss the plane, which has decided to go and do not get involved.

Coach booked a night to Colombo (14,000 rupees), sat down, drive 500 meters and realized that the story still in trouble. The driver not only did not speak in English, so also does not know the way! We, tourists, soon realized that he was not going there, because it traveled all over the neighborhood on bikes all. So he first called someone for advice, then stayed in every community where there were forks, ask your way. And then he started to fall asleep! In the courtyard, a night already! We ourselves want to sleep! We decided to watch it at a time. And meanwhile he began to wag - the two wheels move out to the side, then the oncoming lane, then rushes into the wall. Out, washed with water, turned on some music myself. We have a loud comment on all this, then started again cut down. I asked him: do you know the way? He nods and smiles. We ask: do you want to sleep? The same reaction. Horror in general. And in the rear-view mirror can not even see, his eyes are open or not! At one point, he again left two wheels for a dividing line, and rushing towards the bus blew him a mirror and scratched fender. 3 night time hours, the bus stopped immediately ponabezhala lot of people, they are ten minutes porazglyadyvali-discuss-and then our driver picked up the mirror, and we drove on. Moron, nothing more to say! Fuck people take to drive if you do not know the way and either do not know how to drive, whether bodorstvovat driving!? Then he once again stopped at a gas station to ask for directions, and there stood a man with a backpack, or waiting for the bus, or just walk out. The driver apparently asked him, and you do not have a case in Colombo? And he said, and that, let's go! And he sat down with us. And he began to talk with the driver, and even, I think, gave him advice in driving, namely yelled as he tried to get out again on the oncoming! We are on the whole thing looked, rested and slept till Colombo.

chaperdad said...

Our friends were leaving this morning, and we were in Colombo for another day wait for your plane. Settled in a 5-minute drive from the airport in 1500. Gryaznenko there certainly was, and the owner in English is not spoken, but we came for one night. By the way, on the road from the airport so many different Hestia.

We waited a day of shopping! Went to the center, Majestic City shopping for tea company Mlesna. Bought various tea somewhere kilogram 3, myself and a gift, and spent a about 1,200 Russian rubles. Tea drinking - a lot. Grades they basically all fine, but there is a large, called Orange Pekoe. We liked the most.

Besides tea Majestic City is a department Odel, where many different t-shirts with symbols of Sri Lanka and simply fun prints, large Food City, souvenir shops, heaps of shops, where packs sell Lacoste and other brands. Lacoste polo cost around 1800 rupees, male. Asked: is there a women's polo? The seller got something square and said it was a woman. Asked: is there a form-fitting? He says it is form-fitting. And so in all stores! Who do they sell it very confusing ... There are of course shops with dresses for women, but somehow they did not come to my liking. Overall, I was able to imagine things only got dressed to buy.

Buses in Colombo - it's terrible! It's roasting, stinks, heaps of people, wild jams! We from the airport at 9 am traveling about a half hour! Have time to eat and sleep on the way, tired badly! Conversely found Tucker, who agreed to take us all for 1000 rupees. On the way, admired their country, work and life in general, asked us whether we like Sri Lanka, to which we nodded with a forced smile ... He asked whether more will come, and if I come, maybe Tucker will work, because it's such a wonderful job !

chaperdad said...

Now I think it cost him his nod, all that's so polite nod, and as a result the Sri Lankans believe that they do not have a country, and an unearthly paradise! In the photos, in fact everything worked beautifully, from which we order puzzled: look at the pictures, look around - two very different things! Conditions in a guest - not "oh", and they are thus more expensive than hotels with the same conditions, for example, in Russia, in Krasnodar Krai. Someone will say, compared the ocean and the Black Sea ... and the Black Sea, however, is clear, and swim in the ocean mountains of bottles and packages, because the Sri Lankans are not neat, throw trash and do not think! Dirtied and shoulders, and beaches.

Believe that if the white man - the heaps of money, and they did not occur to him that people can save up all year to go to the fucking summer in Sri Lanka! And their children are taught this, they throw themselves at his feet, as the announced!

And the prices are not low, it is possible to compare the prices charged by traditional Russian city. Therefore, it is unclear where they were all poor, poor? Zashibat like a lot, but they live with the bad. Where the money, then disappear? Why feel sorry for them, that's it?

Lazy. Travel industry to develop not seek. Build a house, but you lay tile floor, wall paint, low cost, go after nasty! And people just pulled. No, do sit all day lomyat money for their homes and rooms with all the empty stand. Some try, of course, as the host of Gest in Nilavelli. Well, do not blame him, he did not know, never seen before, how different it is in the hotels, but honest.

And as the apotheosis - met at the airport Russian, limping on one leg. He first studied the sad dyutike tea, and then he sighed and said: I hope there will not be deceived ... Few other words, of course, said))

Not to say that the journey is something we do not like it, because there were many good moments, and new experiences. It's a shame that it is not a ride on an elephant and were not included in the tea plantations, even a little bit funny)) would be of course it's much better ... And definitely not worth planning a trip to a completely independent foreign country as a honeymoon! Prepare well ahead of the wedding just will not work, and let things take their course, as we did, I do not advise! But we got here is such Experience,)

Overall, more than ever, we did not go back to Moscow with such joy. And in Sri Lanka, more - a foot! As well as in India. And as for the other countries of Southeast Asia, not in the next year, for sure.

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